Construction equipment

Heater Accessories

2 products

A ducting hose carries hot air from a heater to where it is actually needed. Without one, the airflow disperses within a few metres of the outlet and heats mainly the area around the machine — with ducting the same heat reaches the far end of a hall, the roof space of a marquee or one specific working zone, instead of warming the whole volume indiscriminately.

2 products

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Diameter is matched to the heater outlet, not to the length of the run. The 250 mm hose fits the TA-DV20 and TA-DV30 units, the 300 mm hose fits the TA-DV50. Both are 10 m long, which in a typical hall is enough to deliver heat well beyond the machine's own position.

Ducting has nothing to do with flue gas. Oil-fired heaters in the TA-DV series have a separate, smaller-diameter flue connection that takes combustion products outside. Connecting one in place of the other is dangerous — the machine's manual, not the appearance of the connectors, states which outlet is which.

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The heaters themselves are in oil-fired air heaters, with the full range in air heaters.

What ducting achieves

A heater without ducting warms mainly what stands in front of it. The airflow disperses within a few metres, so the temperature beside the machine can be unbearable while nothing changes at the other end of the space. Ducting carries that airflow intact to where it is wanted.

Heating halls and buildings under construction

In a production hall or warehouse the heater usually stands near the door — where it can be refuelled and where there is combustion air. The work, meanwhile, happens further in. A 10 m duct separates the two: the heater stays by the entrance while the heat reaches the working positions. It matters equally during winter finishing work, when a temperature has to be held in one zone rather than throughout — heating an eight-metre-high hall in full costs many times more fuel than delivering warm air to the place of work.

Marquees and temporary structures

With marquees the heater is placed outside as a matter of course — for safety, for noise and because of fuel odour. Heat enters only through ducting, usually via an inlet in the side wall. A 250 or 300 mm diameter carries the airflow without excessive resistance, and the flexible construction follows the frame without sharp kinks.

Drying after flooding and screed work

Drying is about directing warm air at one specific surface — a wet wall, a fresh screed, a damp section of floor. A duct terminated at the chosen point does this more effectively than a heater blowing into open space, because the whole airflow works where the moisture has to be driven off.

Matching ducting to the heater

Ducting Diameter Length Fits
Ducting ⌀250 250 mm 10 m TA-DV20, TA-DV30
Ducting ⌀300 300 mm 10 m TA-DV50

Diameter is not a matter of preference — it has to match the heater's outlet spigot. Ducting narrower than the outlet throttles the flow: the fan works against higher resistance, air leaves the combustion chamber more slowly and heat exchanger temperature rises. On heaters with thermal cut-out that ends in the machine shutting down; at worst it shortens exchanger life. Ducting wider than the spigot simply will not stay on the connection.

The 10 m length is a starting figure rather than a technical limit — what governs the practical reach is the number of bends along the route. Every sharp bend adds more resistance than several metres of duct laid straight, so a longer run following a gentle curve performs better than a shorter one turned through a right angle.

Ducting and flue are not the same thing

This distinction is the most important information on the page. Oil-fired heaters split into two groups and only one of them has a flue.

Machines with flue connection — such as the TA-DV series — have a sealed combustion chamber and a separate, smaller-diameter flue spigot that takes combustion products outside. The warm air used for heating never comes into contact with them. Ducting of 250 or 300 mm connects solely to the air outlet, never to the flue spigot.

Machines without flue connection discharge combustion products directly into the heated space, which is why they may be used only where air exchange is assured. Ducting changes nothing here — it does not remove combustion products and does not substitute for ventilation.

Carbon monoxide has no smell and cannot be detected without an alarm. On any combustion appliance the manufacturer's manual decides which outlet serves which purpose, not the similarity of the connectors — and where the documentation does not state it unambiguously, the machine should not be run.

Installation and use

Running the route

Ducting is laid as straight as practical, without sharp bends or restrictions. Surplus length should not be coiled tightly — a coiled section adds resistance and runs hotter than one laid out. Where the route is shorter than 10 m, the surplus is taken round a wide curve or a shorter length is used.

Clearance from materials

The duct surface reaches a temperature close to that of the air inside it, so it must not be run directly across heat-sensitive materials or rested against sheeting, insulation boards or marquee fabric. Where it passes through a marquee wall, the purpose-made inlet is used rather than an opening cut on site.

What wears

Connectors and clamps go first — they take the strain whenever the machine is moved, and they are what lets go when someone pulls the duct instead of repositioning it. The duct itself loses its seal at repeated kinks, typically where it is folded in the same place every time it is packed away. Storing it loosely coiled and free of crushing extends its life more than any other measure.

Frequently asked questions

What ducting diameter suits my heater?

Diameter has to match the heater's outlet spigot — in our range 250 mm fits the TA-DV20 and TA-DV30, and 300 mm the TA-DV50. It is not a parameter chosen by route length or room size. Ducting narrower than the outlet throttles the flow, raising heat exchanger temperature until a machine with thermal cut-out shuts itself down. Wider ducting will not stay on the spigot. With a heater of another make, measure the outlet rather than assuming compatibility from appearance.

Can ducting be used as a flue?

Ducting serves only to distribute warm air and has no application in a flue system. Heaters with flue connection have a separate spigot of different, smaller diameter, built for far higher temperatures and for contact with combustion products. Confusing the two is dangerous, because carbon monoxide has no smell and cannot be detected without an alarm. Which spigot serves which purpose is stated in the manual for that specific machine — not by diameter or by the look of the connector.

How many metres of ducting can be connected?

Our ducts are 10 m each, a length suited to a typical hall or marquee. Practical reach depends less on length than on route resistance: every sharp bend costs more than several metres of duct laid straight. Joining several lengths into one long run raises resistance and lowers outlet temperature, and on a heater with thermal cut-out it can cause the machine to shut down repeatedly. Where heat has to travel further, moving the heater makes more sense than adding ducting.

Can ducting be shortened or the surplus coiled?

Surplus should not be coiled tightly — a coiled section presents noticeably higher resistance and heats up more than one laid out, because the heat has no way to escape. Where the route is shorter than 10 m, the surplus is run in a wide curve along a wall. Cutting the duct removes the factory-formed end used to secure it to the spigot, so it is a last resort and calls for a new connection to be made.

Can ducting run along the floor and against a wall?

The duct surface reaches a temperature close to the air inside, so it must not be laid directly on heat-sensitive materials or rested against building sheeting, insulation boards or marquee fabric. Across a concrete floor it can run freely, with the only concerns being that it does not obstruct movement and that nobody drives over it. Where it passes through a marquee wall, use the purpose-made inlet rather than an opening cut on site.

What wears out first?

Connectors and clamps — they carry the strain when the heater is repositioned, and they are what fails when the duct is pulled rather than moved. The second point is kinking: the duct loses its seal where it is folded in the same place each time it is packed away after work. Storing it loosely coiled, without crushing and without heavy items on top, extends its life more than any maintenance procedure.

Related equipment

The heaters these ducts fit are in oil-fired air heaters. Mains-powered units, which need no flue at all, are in electric air heaters, and the complete range of heating equipment is in air heaters.